Location: On the edge of tomorrow looking back at yesterday Gender:
Posted:
Oct 8, 2025 - 12:46pm
SeriousLee wrote:
I'm looking for that thread where there was discussion about drivers stepping on the brake pedal and the car would accelerate instead. An accident would ensue and it would appear the driver would step on the gas pedal thinking it's the brake pedal and because the car would accelerate they would step on the gas pedal even more.
I just heard from my wife this morning that her mom's car has that exact problem. Step on the brakes and the car starts accelerating a bit, but at least when she pushes a bit harder on the brake pedal, it does slow down. This was verified by her son. It's an old Ford Focus, not sure what the year is.
Waiting to see what the mechanic has to say.
I remember this happening to me about 35+ years ago in a Buick Century and I want to say it was a vacuum problem. Would surge forward a bit but stop. But that was in another lifetime long ago.
I'm looking for that thread where there was discussion about drivers stepping on the brake pedal and the car would accelerate instead. An accident would ensue and it would appear the driver would step on the gas pedal thinking it's the brake pedal and because the car would accelerate they would step on the gas pedal even more.
I just heard from my wife this morning that her mom's car has that exact problem. Step on the brakes and the car starts accelerating a bit, but at least when she pushes a bit harder on the brake pedal, it does slow down. This was verified by her son. It's an old Ford Focus, not sure what the year is.
Location: Really deep in the heart of South California Gender:
Posted:
Aug 17, 2022 - 8:44pm
Red_Dragon wrote:
Found it's software AND a module which cannot be retrofitted to a 2016 Ford Focus. Dammit.
I find the start/ stop annoying.
Not to mention it's very hard on the starter and battery.
Here in the desert, people have their air conditioning running while that feature is working. I would image that system is really hard on the a/c components.
And how much fuel would it really save?
If the feature is available at all on the car it's probably a setting you can reach from the dash. Time to RTFM/googleâdon't know what she's driving.
Found it's software AND a module which cannot be retrofitted to a 2016 Ford Focus. Dammit.
Location: Really deep in the heart of South California Gender:
Posted:
Aug 15, 2022 - 2:01pm
GeneP59 wrote:
You got a Pherd rearend on your Ram?
The 9" is one tough unit. Parts are available at Quickie Marts. The aftermarket supports them with all kinds of goodies.
They were the "go to" rear end back in the early 60's on Top Fuel dragsters even. Until they started to produce over 2,500 hp's. They're still the "go to" rear end this day.
I bent my original Chrysler 8.75" housing years ago. The 9" was an easy, almost bolt on process. Even the same bolt pattern. And it made for an easy conversion to rear disc brakes.
I don't have a Ram. My truck is a Dodge. I bought it way before they changed it to Ram.
If you have a few days... here's pretty much the whole, very long story... https://www.ramchargercentral....
Location: On the edge of tomorrow looking back at yesterday Gender:
Posted:
Aug 14, 2022 - 10:45am
KurtfromLaQuinta wrote:
The truck has been making some funky noises for the last couple of months.
Well, I isolated it to my Pherd 9" rear end. It hasn't been touched in, wait for it, in quite a few years. I think just before my daughter was a senior in high school. 1997 to be exact.
Lots of hard miles since then.
I yanked out the 3rd member the other day and found out where the noise was coming from...
Money will be spent, and new parts will be installed quickly.
Location: Really deep in the heart of South California Gender:
Posted:
Feb 25, 2022 - 10:48pm
The truck has been making some funky noises for the last couple of months.
I thought for sure it was the U-Joints on the rear drive shaft.
After all, they've been on there for quite a long time. Way before our last trip to Alaska in '06. I even took spare U Joints on that trip. And I still have them in my "spares" cabinet.
I've kept them lubed well all this time, but they do wear out. Especially when you pump over 650 ft. lbs. of torque through them daily on a semi- heavy vehicle.
Nope. They were fine still. Good ol' American made Spicer 1350's. Beefy units for sure.
Well, I isolated it to my Pherd 9" rear end. It hasn't been touched in, wait for it, in quite a few years. I think just before my daughter was a senior in high school. 1997 to be exact.
Lots of hard miles since then.
I yanked out the 3rd member the other day and found out where the noise was coming from...
For those not familiar at what's inside the 3rd member. That big gear is the ring gear. It turns the motion of the drive shaft coming from the transmission through the pinion gear (not seen) to a 90 degree change to drive the rear axles/ wheels.
It's not supposed to have the gouges on the inner part of the gear.
Here's was just a few of the bigger pieces laying in the bottom of the axle tube...
These are pieces of the pinion gear that ride in the grooves of the ring gear.
Not salvageable.
Money will be spent, and new parts will be installed quickly.
Do be careful with Michelins. While they are excellent wearing tires, the rubber is too hard for in control slick wet driving. Been there done that. Great dry or in sticky snow, but be extra careful when things get slippery. They tend to break traction a little too easily when braking.
Missed this one when you posted 3 months ago Kurtster. Thanks but frankly I believe your advice is misleading, at least for the models of Michelin tires I chose. For context, we used to live extremely wet Greater Vancouver where the biggest natural threat on the road were rain storms of biblical proportions. Now we live in an area where the greatest natural threat is 'black ice' — tire choice does not matter so much but some knowledge of basic physics and local knowledge of roads help. We do on occasion still descend into the wet belt near the coast.
The 4-season Michelin LTX tires on the Xterra 4X4 handle great in the wet. In passing, if 'wet' is a danger, you really want to avoid AT (All Terrain) tires no matter how cool and sexy they look in the parking lot. AT tires do not sipe water away as well as they could.
The 4-season Michelin Cross Climates we put on the Kia Soul are highly rated for a number of conditions, including 'wet'. So far, I am impressed under a number of driving conditions.
The plan is simple: buy used or inexpensive new vehicles, keep them forever and then take advantage of the savings to spend on top-quality tires and synthetic oils.
Top quality synthetic motor oil exhibits lower evaporation rates which can be particularly useful for avoiding problems in GDI engines such as fouling of the intake valves. GDI = gasoline direct injection. Large numbers of cars with GDI engines are experiencing oil burning and/or loss issues. Example, 3 litres of extra oil must be added between oil changes, a situation that many would regard as completely and utterly unacceptable. Despite what dealerships are saying.
So. P's "new" car - a 2016 Ford Focus SE - uses the engine management computer to determine oil-change intervals. She bought the car in April with 43k miles on it, it now has just over 51k. It has yet to present the "change oil" message. I'm guessing it's set for 10k miles, but really have no idea.
Anyone else own a car with a similar setup, or have any advice? Full synthetic oil is required.
No for a similar set up. But advice, yes. First, does that Ford Focus SE have a GDI or multi-port engine? GDI = gasoline direct injection.
If it has a GDI engine, I would change it yesterday. I would plan on switching out the PCV valve in the next 20 to 30K miles. Using an intake valve cleaner prior to every oil change or every second oil change would also be a good idea.
What oil change interval does the vehicle user manual recommend for vehicles under warranty? I would follow that recommendation until you have a better understanding of the engine.
If it is a multi-port engine and behaves well, I would buy expensive premium synthetic oil, e.g., Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, an expensive, long-life oil filter and target changing the oil once a year as long as the miles driven are not too excessive and mostly highway driven (e.g., less than 17K miles). Oil changes for a GDI engine should be more frequent. Oil changes for short stop 'n go urban trips should be more frequent, perhaps every 5K miles.
If not changing your own oil, avoid the quick lube, quick oil change places. Unless you are already familiar with the torrent of horror stories. Go to the dealership or a trusted garage and pay more to get them to change the oil, do it right, and not upsell you stuff you do not need, or charge you for services that are never performed.
Pretty much all the synthetics give vastly better performance than conventional stuff. But good-quality conventionals have additives that can make them competitive with the cheaper synthetics. Newer vehicles use thinner oil (first number) to help them pass certain tests - I think there was a discussion about it here somewhere.
Filter-wise, the brand I use is Purolator. Usually their 'Pure One' line. Some years ago there was a long discussion on 'Bob Is The Oil Guy' site about filters. A guy dissected about a dozen filters and reviewed their features. Plus he dissected used filters to examine what they collected. Purolator came out on top. That was awhile ago, I should check back over there and see if anything has changed.
'Bob Is The Oil Guy' is THE site for way more than you'd ever want to know about oil, filters, coolants, etc. etc. Total nerd-fest.
The 2016 Ford Focus does have a GDI engine. Welcome to the club, our Kia Soul 2015 has a GDI engine.
In addition, the Consumer Reports rates the Focus very low for reliability. You can if you wish offset or compensate this situation through careful maintenance.
