I redid ourbold house with high efficiency stuff, and i ran the whole place off an 8kw generator with lots of overhead.
consider a transfer panel with a subset of circuits - do you really need the guestbroom whennpower is out? Lights, tv, cold beer, hot water- no judgement on whatborder you put them in.
I was hoping you were around...
I want to be able to run the house as normal - the whole house.
NOT DIY... We will be having installed a standby generator next year. Sick to death of Baghdad Electric's outages.
Our home is approximately 1,000 sf and our appliances modern and efficient. In addition to the generator, we'll be replacing our package unit furnace/ac with a full-electric heat pump. From what I gather, a 20kw unit will be more than adequate; looking at a Cummins because they're very quiet.
Anyone have any experience with such things?
I redid ourbold house with high efficiency stuff, and i ran the whole place off an 8kw generator with lots of overhead.
consider a transfer panel with a subset of circuits - do you really need the guestbroom whennpower is out? Lights, tv, cold beer, hot water- no judgement on whatborder you put them in.
NOT DIY... We will be having installed a standby generator next year. Sick to death of Baghdad Electric's outages.
Our home is approximately 1,000 sf and our appliances modern and efficient. In addition to the generator, we'll be replacing our package unit furnace/ac with a full-electric heat pump. From what I gather, a 20kw unit will be more than adequate; looking at a Cummins because they're very quiet.
Seems our local Lowe's doesn't carry diamond-tipped bits, only diamond-ground carbide bits. But, one of those got the job done - a lot faster than I anticipated. Job went off without a hitch; the most difficult part was removing the old fixture.
What sort of bit does one use to drill a hole in ceramic tile?
I have a set of diamond 'hole saws' I use to drill through ceramics. They look like tiny hole saws, without the drill in the middle. They are tricky to use by hand, but it's possible. Especially if you don't need precision. google 'diamond hole saw', Amazon has a set for under $10.
Carbide tip masonry bit. FIRST make a nick with a sharp awl or something to scratch it, then I use a very small bit to start. Put some masking tape or duct tape on it first, to help keep the bit from walking. The bit should also have a sharp point to help it stay put. You have to get through the glazing carefully. Once you get the small bit thru the harder outside, you can go to the full size bit. If you sprang for a new super hard diamond tip masonry bit, you might not need to do the small/large bit thing, but I go with what got me here. DO NOT apply much pressure. I keep the bit speed pretty fast but not maxRPM, and pressure very very light. It will go, eventually, but it takes patience.
I'm thinking I may be able to place the hole in the grout between a couple of tiles... or is that not a good idea?
Will the tile be on the floor on on a wall? I assume you're thinking of a small hole. If it's for something like a towel rack a penetration in a grout seam could eventually loosen or crack the grout because of the repeated strain of pulling and pushing towels on it, though even that may not happen right away. If it's for something like a water supply line it may not matter as much. Either way, a lot of (flexible) caulk or silicone around the perimeter is usually good.
Carbide tip masonry bit. FIRST make a nick with a sharp awl or something to scratch it, then I use a very small bit to start. Put some masking tape or duct tape on it first, to help keep the bit from walking. The bit should also have a sharp point to help it stay put. You have to get through the glazing carefully. Once you get the small bit thru the harder outside, you can go to the full size bit. If you sprang for a new super hard diamond tip masonry bit, you might not need to do the small/large bit thing, but I go with what got me here. DO NOT apply much pressure. I keep the bit speed pretty fast but not maxRPM, and pressure very very light. It will go, eventually, but it takes patience.
I'm thinking I may be able to place the hole in the grout between a couple of tiles... or is that not a good idea?
What sort of bit does one use to drill a hole in ceramic tile?
Carbide tip masonry bit. FIRST make a nick with a sharp awl or something to scratch it, then I use a very small bit to start. Put some masking tape or duct tape on it first, to help keep the bit from walking. The bit should also have a sharp point to help it stay put. You have to get through the glazing carefully. Once you get the small bit thru the harder outside, you can go to the full size bit. If you sprang for a new super hard diamond tip masonry bit, you might not need to do the small/large bit thing, but I go with what got me here. DO NOT apply much pressure. I keep the bit speed pretty fast but not maxRPM, and pressure very very light. It will go, eventually, but it takes patience.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
who is we? did you get a new cat?
One of my bestest friends (and musical collaborators) who's been doing the lion's share of all this DIY out of the goodness of his heart.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardwareâI think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardwareâI think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
Yes - I'm about to move in to the house on Tuesday - but I may be able to get a pic tonight when I take a load of stuff over there. Thanks! EDIT: The former owner (or who knows, maybe even one before her) had the doors off and stored in a shed before I moved in - I opted to put them back on. So they also might be slightly bowed from being in extreme temps out there (one is for sure). And that could be part of the problem.
We decided to go with new doors/rails and get rid of the warped ones. So...never mind.
I've got old closet sliding doors and vintage steel rails but missing roller hardware—I think they're original (1960s). All the latest hardware at both Home Depot and Lowes don't fit well (doors too close, don't slide easily) on the old rails. We want to avoid having to get all new doors - is there anywhere online that would have old roller parts to fit old rails? (Instead of 2 J-shaped ones facing the same way, it's two Js facing in.)
A lot of those are pretty standard but is it possible to take pics and post?
Yes - I'm about to move in to the house on Tuesday - but I may be able to get a pic tonight when I take a load of stuff over there. Thanks! EDIT: The former owner (or who knows, maybe even one before her) had the doors off and stored in a shed before I moved in - I opted to put them back on. So they also might be slightly bowed from being in extreme temps out there (one is for sure). And that could be part of the problem.
